For years, Malacca was best known as a cult gin. Slightly sweeter and less junipery than London dry gins, it is supposedly based on Charles Tanqueray’s own 1830s recipe. It was made available briefly in the late 1990s, before it was whisked off the shelves. Once again, this is a limited-edition bottling. It’s soft, herbal and fresh, with green notes that evoke spearmint and basil, just enough juniper for backbone, and a delicate rosewater finish. It’s a natural for classic cocktails, so let’s hope it sticks around a while this time.